The deck seemed easier to set up for one thing and the bass quality, especially in terms of significantly reduced overhang and better tighter 'tunefulness,' was something of an ear opener to me.
#Linn ekos se vs sme v full#
Why I say the above, is the utter transformation (to me) that came about with the full Cirkus bearing-sub chassis kit, coupled with the revised plinths in the early 90's or so. We had a kind of joke that Karma's and Troika's started off fine and went off the boil as they bedded in, but I suspect that 'we' at this time were a mostly silent minority (Linn knew, but stayed silent at the time).
#Linn ekos se vs sme v pro#
Looking back with hindsight and knowing now what I've heard and experienced in pro as well as domestic environments, I can honestly say that a mid 80's LP12 with Ittok and (usually) Linn MC cartridge was so off the mark in terms of fidelity to the original source it was almost laughable! In fact, I was shocked once or twice hearing how much 'better' an early 80's deck with good bearing and Asak could actually sound in its clipped dry way. I don't wish to dispute with 'Smokestack' at all, but the mantra about all mid 80's LP12 bass woes being often (bad) setup borne are really not always there, although I do admit there were some bad setups even by then and I tried my best to eliminate this, with some success back then. Also, in the context of many systems, it was the extra questions being asked of the amp & speakers which allowed the sound to lose its overall balance and cohesion.īut I do accept the idea that the additional "bandwidth" if you like of the Ittok/ Ekos could on occasion upset a system to the point of negating much of the anticipated improvement. but most often as a result of the set up not being quite what it should be. The issue of fat obtrusive bass when moving to an Ittok on an older deck could be a problem. I do get much of that DSJR and would agree to a point. So yeah, a good example of an Ittok of any age and even more so an Ekos (an early one MUST have good bearings as some didn't and escaped warranty claims!), will 'load up' the LP12 structure and if a bloated bass and sometimes clanky top is to be avoided, the deck MUST have as many of the structural updates as possible, especially the sub chassis in my opinion. A good dealer can check the state of the main bearing as well, as some mid 80's samples don't last as long as others can and sound is well effed up if that's the case. To my ears, an Ittok NEEDS this extra control in the bass to sound anywhere near how it should and plonked on a straight early 80's LP12 as we all did at the time, colours the bass up no end - one reason why Linnies hated 'digital' in its early days and I later discovered it was little to do with the early players either I subsequently discovered. for proper reproduction of vinyl these days I'm going to stick me head on the block and INSIST on a modern sub-chassis at the very least!!! I'm relying on Linn's marketing spiel that even the current stock sub-chassis is better than the early Cirkus one, which to me transformed an early 90's deck with Ittok, ARO or Ekos. The new Jelco made? Majik tonearm should be a fine replacement (somehow the Akito has got itself almost tripled in price in real terms - not sure how that happened but there you are and 'better materials and bearings' really don't cost much more I gather from engineers.).Īs for the Ittok upwards. A modern AT MM (VM95-EN or better, AT520/530/540) should be a fine match as long as the arm is behaving itself and not messed up by over-enthusiastic dealers or end users over the last thirty years.
#Linn ekos se vs sme v plus#
The Basik Plus in fine order is still a very good tonearm for mid period LP12's, largely holding the pre late 80's 'fruitbox bloat' in the bass at bay and offering good musical communication.
I'd hesitate to recommend one on anything other than the earliest LP12's which may have some cachet and value in being original. The original pre 1972 3009's were 'massier' and with suitable modern headshells, can work with many MC cartridges. The 'Improved' ones with screw-on style counterweights were a bit resonant by today's standards and really, you're limited to only some MM cartridge types if a 2-D leanness is to be avoided. The old SME 3009's varied according top model. It also very much depends on the age of the LP12 and it's state of 'updatedness.' The earlier the LP12 build (pre 1990 especially), the lower the sonic ceiling in my book, especially today with more neutral vinyl alternatives available.
No disrespect, but somehow, the OP needs to do some listening rather than all of 'us' offering differing opinions.
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